Fuji X-E1 vs Panasonic GX7 MILC comparison Part 2

On the left Panasonic GX7 with 14-42mm Mk2 lens. On the right, Fuji X-E1 with accessory handle, thumb support and 18-55mm lens. The accessories make the X-E1 much more secure to hold but add to the bulk, mass and cost. The GX7 could probably benefit from some similar accessories.

Two modern versions of the "look-a-Leica" style

Part 2

In this post  I will briefly discuss the operation of each camera with emphasis on ergonomic issues. I will also investigate the various ways in which camera designers might utilise "Set-and-See" modules and the effect these have on the user experience.

Ergonomic issues vs ergonomic mistakes  Modern cameras are very complex, presenting their designers with a multitude of decisions which must be made  in the product development process. Most of these decisions affect the user experience. They are neither good nor bad, they just dictate that the camera will operate in a certain way and not in other ways.   For instance a digital Leica M rangefinder provides a very different user experience from, say, the Panasonic GX7 which we are talking about in this post. Both are "right" in the sense that they both work and  each is ergonomically coherent.

Mistakes  Some decisions are just plain wrong by any functional criterion. Here is an example:

Fuji X-cams AF button   The X-100 of 2010 has a button labelled [AF] on the left side of the monitor. You press this to activate the AF area, then press the 4 Way (cursor) buttons to move it's position.  The X-10, X-Pro1 and  X-E1 all had the same button in approximately the same location.

So what ? The problem is that with each of these cameras you need your left hand on the lens barrel to support the lens, adjust aperture,  zoom or all three.

So you need to become a juggler to move the AF area. The sequence is: left hand off lens> left hand press AF button> left hand back on lens> right hand off gripping/holding duties> right thumb presses 4 way controller> right hand returns to gripping/holding duty> continue with capture phase of camera use.  Feel lucky if the camera does not fall on the floor while you practice juggling.

With the X-20, a firmware upgrade to the X-E1, the X100s and X-E2 they fixed the problem by moving the [AF] button function over to the 4 way controller so you could change AF area position and size with the right hand while maintaining a constant grip on the camera with the left hand.  At last, they got it right.  But why was that button on the left side in the first place ?  Strange.................  

But enough about  mistakes, now I want to talk about camera control systems.

The glory days ?   The X-E1 and GX7 which are the subjects of this two part post appear to be styled to recapture some sense of the glory days of  mid 20th Century photography, when a camera was something special, a work of high craft,  to be handled almost with reverence, not just another electronic gadget.  In those days  a photographer had to know all about apertures, shutter speeds and much more to make any photos at all.

Pentax Spotmatic. I owned and used one of these for several years. It remains my all time nostalgic favourite camera. You can see all the control modules in this photo. I do understand that camera users might yearn for a return to this camera's simplicity. Until they actually start using it of course, at which time it's auto nothing operation might get a bit tedious.

 

Old technology operating systems  For many years  from the 1960's through to the late 80's,  I used film cameras with basic control systems and predominantly manual operation.   These included the Pentax Spotmatic, Leica M6 and Mamiya 7. 

Leica M6. Although this is a rangefinder the basic control layout is the same as that found on the Spotmatic above.  Basic, simple, engaging.

 

Although one of these is a SLR and the other two are rangefinders and two are 35mm while the other is a medium format, their user interface is very similar. At the front you have a single focal length manual focus lens, there  being no zooms and no autofocus in those days. There is a focus distance scale on the lens barrel and a depth of focus scale. You can preset focus distance and establish hyperfocal distance right on the lens barrel.  There is an aperture ring on the lens with fStops clearly marked. On top of the body there is a shutter speed dial. There is a little window in the dial to indicate  ISO setting, which in those days was called ASA or DIN. There is a little mechanical self timer lever and levers to advance and rewind the film and that is about the lot.

A camera like this is simple and direct in operation.  The user has to be very engaged with the camera's controls and the process of photography in order to make it work.   There is no "Auto" Mode or indeed any other kind of mode.

Note that all the control modules are of the Set-and-See type. You make the settings  and can see all of them  simply by looking at the camera from above.

Having enjoyed using cameras like this for many years then moved on to digital photography and electronic camera operation I  feel that  I have some understanding of the counter technology appeal of  cameras which reprise the good old days. 

It might be thought the disadvantage of the old style user interface would  be it's rather slow operational speed. In fact the experienced user with a high latitude film like Kodak Tri-X would set focus distance, aperture and shutter speed when moving into a location,  in the Prepare Phase of use. When the decisive moment arrived,  in the Capture Phase of use, the only action required was to press the shutter button.

No, the disadvantage of  Set-and-See modules is  that you can't see them while making pictures with your eye to the viewfinder.

This led camera makers to develop over a period of many years increasingly electronic means of  presenting  readouts of the primary exposure parameters (ISO, Aperture, Shutter Speed)  in the viewfinder.

Which leads us to the next question.  If  ISO, Aperture, Shutter Speed and other parameters of exposure and focus can be clearly displayed in the viewfinder, and they can, why put them on Set-and-See modules ? 

The answer to this question I think is that you don't need them on Set-and-See modules at all, but if they are located on such modules than those same modules are not available for any other purpose. This is the opportunity cost of locating any function on a Set-and-See module.

New technology operating systems     Since about year 2000, the standard operating system for digital cameras has been the Mode Dial and Control Dial  system. Sometimes there are two or even three control dials. The more the merrier (maybe).  Adjustments to ISO, shutter speed and aperture are made with the control dial(s) while the user is looking through the viewfinder.  This is not fundamentally  better than the old tech system but it does open up more options for the use of  Set-and-See modules.

Modern cameras have a vast array of features, functions, modes and options not even imagined in the old days.  These include such things as Focus Mode, Autofocus Mode, Drive Mode, Exposure Mode, Flash Mode................and  on  and  on and on.....it seems there is no end to them. One of these, the Main Shooting Mode,  is conventionally and sensibly allocated to a Set-and-See dial on the camera top somewhere. This allows the user to see at a glance whether the camera is in Aperture Priority Mode or one of the other modes.

The functions/modes most frequently adjusted  in Prepare Phase of use can be allocated to any remaining Set-and-Seemodules.  

Back to the Fuji X-E1 and Panasonic GX7 

The X-E1 uses a modified  version of the old tech control system described above.  The autofocus lenses have no distance scale or depth of field scale. However an analogue distance scale can be set in the viewfinder or monitor.  There are fStop markings on single focal length lenses but not the zooms which are of variable aperture design. There is a shutter speed dial. There is also an exposure compensation dial top right which is not part of the old tech control suite at all.

The GX7 uses a completely new tech Main Mode Dial and (twin) control dial layout.

Time and motion studies It is possible to break down the actions required to operate a camera into a series of steps,  observe the number and complexity of movements required to complete each step and note the time taken to perform each step.

Thus one can study actions required to shift from Manual to Shutter Priority to Aperture Priority to Programmed Exposure Modes. Once in one of those modes one can study the actions required to change Aperture, Shutter Speed, or both.  The exercise can be extended to include all primary and secondary exposure and focussing parameters and also to setting various modes used in Prepare Phase of use.

I have done this and found that for most of  these steps the X-E1 requires more movements of the fingers and most of those movements are more complex than is required to carry out the same steps with the GX7.

So the GX7 is quicker to operate, and as we saw in Part 1 it performs faster and in some cases (low light focussing) better.

But as the song goes......"Is that all there is....?"...............Apparently not.

Several reviewers report they like using the Fuji X cameras including the X-E1 very much.  One said  "it's a wonderful way to operate a camera..". Other comments I have read include  "..it is a simple, elegant and highly functional design...." and  "...a beautifully designed and engineered camera..".

So some reviewers like it and there does appear to be a loyal fan base on user forums.

So whence the appeal of the Fuji X- cameras ?  I am unable to read minds so I don't know, but maybe the X-E1's semi retro style, user interface and slowish performance are  the appeal. 

For instance to change from Aperture Priority exposure mode to Shutter Priority mode on the GX7, simply turn the Main Mode Dial one notch. With a little practice this can easily be done with the eye to the viewfinder in 2 seconds, tops.

With the X-E1 and a zoom lens the procedure is more involved. It might, I suppose be possible for a very experienced user with a lot of practice to do it with the eye to the viewfinder but for me it went like this: Drop camera down from the eye> find the little slider right near the lens mount> push the slider to the correct new position> return camera to the eye. 

Another example:  If you want to operate the GX7  in Shutter Priority Mode, just turn the Main Mode Dial to enter S-Prio Mode. To change the shutter speed just rotate the front (or rear, depending on how the dial functions have been set in the menus) dial. That's it. Fast. Easy. Do it with the eye to the viewfinder  without having to perform a two handed juggle with the camera.

With the X-E1 things are not so simple. First lower the camera from the eye. If you start from Aperture Priority Mode with a zoom lens you need to locate and move the little slider which switches aperture function, probably with the left hand.  Then hold the camera with the left hand and grip the shutter speed dial with the index finger and thumb of the right hand. Rotate the dial off the A setting. Now every time you want to change the shutter speed you have to release your grip on the camera with the right hand to rotate the dial.  It may be possible for some users to do this with one finger but I found it more reliable to use two fingers. If your camera is fitted with a thumb support, forget about Shutter Priority, it's impossible to get two fingers onto the dial.    

To an ergonomics boffin like me these  X-E1 arrangements just seem like a  kludgy  workaround. But to another user, perhaps seeking a more contemplative style of camera operation, they  might be just what is wanted.   The X-E1  certainly engages  the user more in the process of operating the camera. This dialectic  could  be very appealing when compared to the fast but remote control  experience with the GX7 and many other current camera models.

Summary  The X-E1 and  GX7 might appear to occupy a similar retro, look-a-Leica market position. But each provides a very different operating  experience and  is likely to appeal to a different user group.

My advice --- Try before you buy. If you really like one of these cameras you might hate the other.

My pick ?  There is no way the  X-E1, (or the improved X-E2) or GX7 will tempt me away from my GH3, even though they have slightly (GX7) or substantially (X-E1/2) better high ISO  picture quality. Performance, ergonomics and the user experience all favour the GH3.  

By the way, the latest rumor I am reading  about the Fuji X-Cams is that the next model will have a hump top, DSLR style shape. I guess Fuji wants to be in all the key market slots. It will be interesting to see if they stay with the "Old tech" control system or go with the flow and use a Mode Dial and Control Wheel interface.