Selasa, 04 September 2012

Samsung NX 20 Ergonomic Review


AN ERGONOMIC REVIEW OF THE SAMSUNG NX20 CAMERA
Contender or Pretender ?
Moving forwards or slipping backwards ?
Author  AndrewS  September 2012
 Introduction    After many years using SLR's  then DSLR's as my main cameras I bought my first (mirrorless) interchangeable lens camera, a Panasonic G1, in 2009. I was not  pleased with the G1's ergonomics so in 2010 I bought a Samsung NX10 which provided a nicer handle and a more user friendly control layout. I used the NX10 later followed by the NX11 (a very mild upgrade) for the next 2 years with a variety of Samsung NX prime and zoom lenses. I made thousands of photos with these cameras which proved very reliable and user friendly. However Samsung's image quality, EVF  and performance failed to keep up with advances made by Panasonic and Olympus in the Micro Four Thirds group, Sony NEX and other manufacturers. So I switched back to M43 in the form of Panasonic GH2 then Olympus EM5 and a selection of zoom lenses.  Then the Samsung NX 20 became available in Australia at a realistic price so I bought one, along with the NX 18-55 mm kit zoom, NX 50-200 mm tele zoom and an NX16 mm f2.4.  While testing the NX20 I was able to compare it with my experience of the NX10/11 and side by side with the Panasonic GH2 and Olympus EM5.
Market Position and buyer expectations  Samsung is marketing, to the extent the imaging division does any marketing in Australia, the NX20  as their "Premium" interchangeable lens camera. As such I think potential buyers would expect it to have a level of image quality, performance and ergonomics at least equivalent to premium ILC's from other brands.
Target User Group  The NX20 has specifications (like the 20 mpx sensor, RAW capture, EVF and swing out monitor) which might appeal to the "Expert/Controller" experienced photographer but also has features (like wi-fi, smart filters and selective color) which might appeal to the broader, snapshooting, smart phone savvy group.  The risk for a camera seeking to appeal to many is that it may satisfy none.
Review Priorities  This is an ergonomic review so I will concentrate on ergonomics and issues relating to the user experience. However brief comment about image quality is appropriate as this too, affects the user's engagement with the camera.  You can read elsewhere all the details about specifications and features. I have not tested video peformance for this review. Neither did I attempt to use the Wi-Fi feature, although I wonder how useful it would be with the 33-34 MB RAW files which this camera produces. 
Image Quality 
Resolution is potentially very high, even extremely high according to some reports.  But top grade lenses are required for full realisation of that potential. Unfortunately only one of the lenses I tested (the 18-55 mm kit zoom) came close to revealing the sensor's resolution potential and then only in the central area of the frame at some focal lengths.
Noise   Uncorrected RAW noise levels (straight off ACR 7.1 at default settings)  up to ISO 3200 were slightly less than the GH2 and slightly more than the EM5.  At ISO 6400 the NX20 gives you the option of very high noise levels (with hi ISO NR off) or mushy JPEG like images (with Hi ISO NR on). Neither appeals. This camera's characteristic tone curve is relevant to it's noise performance. I shot hundreds of photos of a variety of subjects using the NX20, GH2 and EM5 side by side. The EM5 typically delivers lighter mid tones than the other two cameras.  The NX20 files often produce a histogram skewed to the left. These dark tones have to be pulled up with the sliders in ACR/LR. The problem is that most of the noise resides in those dark tones so pulling them to the right increases the overall appearance of noise to the detriment of image quality.
JPG images show signs of overprocessing with smearing of details and watercolor effect at higher ISO levels.
Dynamic Range  My somewhat informal but practical method of testing DR is to photograph a set scene with high subject brightness range and check how well detail is revealed in highlights and shadows.  This test ranked the EM5 best followed by the GH2 then NX20. I lack the technical expertise to put a number on DR but DXO rates the GH2 at 11.3 stops, so the NX20 appears to deliver less than that.
Note that I am comparing the NX20 which has an APS-C (28mm diagonal) sensor to two M43 cameras each having a 21.5 mm diagonal sensor. One (the GH2) is 2 years old and about to be replaced. The NX20 with it's larger sensor should easily beat the M43 cams on all measures of image quality but does so only for resolution.
Performance 
Speed:  Samsung's very first ILC, the NX10, was slow to write data to the memory card.  I coped with this because I wasn't in a hurry most of the time. But I did miss the ability to snap off a series of shots in quick succession or follow focus a moving subject. Several firmware updates improved matters slightly but successive NX cams steadily fell behind M43 in overall operating speed. The NX20 is Samsung's eighth NX camera. One might reasonably expect the world's biggest electronics mega corporation to have fixed this pesky little problem by now.  Unfortunately the NX20 runs just like my NX10 with the initial firmware. AF is slower than that on M43. Changing settings such as ISO brings up pretty screens and funky noises but is laggy compared to the M43 cams. But the main problem is writing to the memory card.  My tests show that using RAW capture with image review turned off and a Sandisk Extreme Pro 95 MB/sec card the following are the shortest shot to shot times I could  achieve, with AF and  preview between each shot.
Shot 1>shot 2 = 0.3 sec. Shot 2>shot3 = 3 sec. Shot 3>shot 4 =4 sec. Shot 4>shot 5 =5 sec. It takes 17 seconds to make 6 consecutive shots and for most of those 17 seconds one is staring at a blank screen waiting for the cam to get on with it's job. The processing light continues to blink for a further 6 seconds during which time if you dare to try and adjust anything you will get the dreaded "Processing" message.  By way of comparison the GH2 can make 6 shots in 3 seconds.
The NX20 is advertised as being able to make 8 shots per second but that is only possible if you don't want AF or preview between each frame. The camera will make 8 RAW photos this way then put up the "Processing" sign for the next 30 seconds.
Continuous AF with Continuous Drive produces 6 frames in 6 seconds with image quality set to JPG Large Fine. The Olympus EM5 can run at 3.3 frames per second with the same image size and quality and keep focus on moving cars in the process.
Autofocus: In Single Shot drive, Single AF, Selection AF, autofocus is accurate and reliable in a wide range of conditions. My NX10 and 11 went for almost two years and many thousands of exposures with an AF misfocus rate of less than 1%. If the NX20 uses the same technology I imagine it will be equally reliable.  It operates at a decent speed  although not quite as fast as the latest M43 cams. The active AF area can be easily shifted around the frame. Continuous AF with continuous drive is best forgotten. This cam's overall operating speed is way too slow for continuous AF to operate usefully.
Auto ISO:  This is poorly implemented. The camera routinely sets an ISO and therefore shutter speed too slow for the focal length in use. The camera "knows" this because it puts up the shutter shake warning hand but fails to take the obvious next step and shift the ISO up to a higher level. This is particularly frustrating because other cams regularly get it right.
Ergonomics   I will review this using my standard headings for the four phases of camera use and the three main tasks of Capture Phase. For further explanation about this please refer to my discussion under multiple headings elsewhere on this blog.
Setup Phase  This mainly involves making settings in a main menu. Samsung's menu system is a model of clarity which other makers might do well to copy. It has (almost) enough options to do the job and is clearly laid out with no need ever to scroll down more than one page. Menus and submenus are clearly displayed. The lack of a "My Menu" heading for frequently used items is disappointing.
Prepare Phase Adjustments in this phase are made by a combination of hard modules (buttons, dials, scroll wheels) and the Fn screen. The Mode dial is of standard configuration and works well. The combination 4 way controller with rear dial is one of the best I have encountered. It is of rocking saucer design with a sharply defined circumference making it easy to find and operate by feel, without having to look at the module.  It is a vast improvement on the Panasonic "five button" arrangement used on the GH2.  There are two buttons on the top plate, just behind the scroll wheel . One goes to Metering Pattern and cannot be reassigned. If you don't change metering pattern often this becomes a wasted button sitting on a high value piece of camera real estate. The same comments apply to the adjacent green button. This is a carry over from the days when Samsung shared a DSLR platform with Pentax. It is a kind of universal reset button the function of which cannot be user reassigned. I use it to recenter the active AF area in Capture Phase but it is difficult to locate by feel so I end up having to take the camera down from my eye to locate the button visually.
The Fn screen is one of the best I have seen on any camera. It is very clear, easy to navigate and use. But OIS is missing from the Fn screen and can only be found in the main menu. When Samsung put their iFn button on the lens barrels, they removed the OIS on/off switch and failed to provide an alternative quick portal of access to this control. The iFn button cannot be configured as a quick OIS on/off control either.
Capture Phase, Viewing  Viewing arrangements on the NX20 are generally good. The monitor is of the versatile swing and swivel type and provides a clear, sharp view of the subject. The EVF is big improvement over that on the NX10/11, providing a clear sharp view with good shadow detail. Colors tend to be a little desaturated.  Key camera data are displayed clearly beneath the image preview in both the monitor and EVF. The only way to identify blown highlights in preview and review is the histogram, which is not always easy to read clearly. The only real problem with viewing is the excessive (compared to the latest M43 cams)  blackout time after each exposure. The EVF eyepiece is reasonably well shaped to fit the anatomical curve of the orbit in landscape or portrait orientation, but a  rubber eyecup would make viewing more comfortable.
Capture Phase, Holding  The NX 20 has an integral handle of the parallel type which I have found to be optimal for a camera of this size.  (please refer to my discussions elsewhere on this blog)  There is a thumbrest of adequate size.  This is a more natural and comfortable arrangement than the "projecting handle with shutter button perched on the end" which you find on the Panasonic G1/2 GH1/2.  So far, so good. However the spatial dynamics of handles and holding are subtle. When Samsung changed from the NX10/11 shape to the NX20 shape they altered several key ergonomic dimensions. The swing monitor takes up more width, leaving less width for the "control panel" area on the right side. In addition the designers chose, for reasons known only to themselves, to lower the shoulder height of the camera body and to alter the contour of the handle. People with small hands might find the new design an improvement, but my average sized adult male hands find the NX20 slightly less comfortable to hold than the NX10. In addition the horizontal distance between the center of the shutter button and the top scroll wheel has gone from 13 to 14 mm. Insignificant, you might think but the sum total of these changes in my hands leads to a slightly more awkward  user interface.
Capture Phase, Operating   Operation is generally straightforward with no dramatic faults. Both scroll wheels are readily located by feel and work well.  Most actions in Capture Phase including change position and size of AF area, can be carried out by touch while viewing through the EVF.  There are a few things which could be improved however. There are two buttons which are difficult to operate when you want them but easy to bump accidentally. One is the new red (video) button sitting under the right thumb. This is inset with a raised lip surrounding the button, presumably to prevent accidental activation. But some reviewers (not me) report they did bump it inadvertently yet it requires a firm push with the interphalangeal joint flexed to make it work on demand. The red button does not allow user reassignment of function. I would prefer this button  to be moved 10mm to the left so the thumb is not sitting on it in the basic hold position. It could be made slightly more prominent thus easier to activate when required and allow user selected configuration from a wide range of options for those who do not routinely use video. I would use it for AF start/lock. The other problem button is the AEL button situated on the thumbrest. This is in exactly the same place as it was on the NX10 and has the same problems. I find I constantly activate this while carrying the camera in my right hand because my thumb lies right over the button. But when I want to use it in the Capture Phase it can only be reached by releasing grip with the right hand, taking the cam down from the eye and locating the button visually. The camera would be better served if this button were deleted altogether and it's functions made assignable to a button on the top plate. Good ergonomic practice strongly indicates that  camera makers should not  place buttons in this location.
iFunction:  I am entirely underwhelmed by Samsung iFunction which I discuss in detail on another post on this blog.
Review Phase  Image review facilities are very good. It is easy to jump from one enlarged image to the next with the rear scroll wheel.
Lenses  Over the last two years I have bought and used a total of 12 Samsung NX lenses as follows:
16mm f2.4 (1), 20mm f2.8 (2), 30mm f2 (1), 20-50mm (1), 18-55mm OIS (3), 50-200mm OIS (4).   Three of these were purchased new with the NX20,  the 16mm, 18-55mm Mk3, and 50-200mm Mk2, all with iFunction. Readers please be advised that there is considerable sample variation between lenses. You may find yourself in posession of one which is better or worse than those which I have tested.
16mm f2.4: My copy of  this lens delivered mediocre performance at all apertures with resolution lower than the not very exciting 18-55mm kit zoom.
20mm f2.8: My first copy of this was soft at all apertures with severe flare against the light. The second copy was decently sharp in the frame center but still had the flare problem.
30mm f2: This was the best NX lens I have owned with near perfect performance at all apertures.
20-50mm (non OIS): This came with a NX100 body. My copy was a decent kit lens, quite sharp at the wide end, less so at the long end.
18-55mm OIS:  I have had three of these. The first was a Mark 1 with plastic mount, without iFn. It delivered a very decent performance at the wide and middle section of the zoom range, going a bit soft at the long end. The second, a Mark 2 with iFn was the best with good performance across the full range of focal lengths and apertures. The third one was a Mark 3 with metal mount and the worst performance of the three. It had a rough zoom action and a peculiar distribution of resolution. It was sharpest at the wide end but with strange soft sectors in the frame the like of which I have not seen in a lens before. Soft corners. The long end delivered good resolution on the test chart (close up) but gave very soft pix of more distant subjects at all apertures.
50-200mm OIS: I bought and used four of these in an unsuccessful effort to find one with good mechanical and optical performance. The first one (Mark 1) had a sticky zoom but was decent optically especially at the short end where it was excellent. The second and third were Mark2 's with a nice smooth zoom action but mediocre optical performance especially at the long end. Number four, also a Mark2 was the worst. The zoom action felt stiff with flexing of the outer barrel of the lens and excessive free play. Optically it was soft on the right side at 50mm, soft on the left side at 100mm and soft all over at 200mm.
Summary of  my experience with NX lenses  I think that 12 lenses over two years is a sufficient basis for some conclusions. My experience indicates poor sample consistency since the start of the NX line, with a recent decline in mechanical and optical quality.
Minor irritations 
Memory Card:   The NX10/11, GH2 and EM5 all locate the memory card behind a dedicated flap on the right side of the camera. But with the NX20 Samsung put the card in with the battery. Bad idea. Worse, the card sits very close to the opened battery cover making it awkward to remove. I have dropped the card many times as a result.
Caps:  Samsung body and lens caps (the body cap is the worst) have bevelled edges, preventing the fingers from getting a proper grip on them. This makes them awkward to remove from the body, lens or each other.
Shoot without lens:  The promotional material for the NX20 makes much of the camera's ability to shoot at 1/8000 of a second (something which I don't recall ever wanting  to do)  due to the availability of an electronic first shutter. I have "E Shutter" in the menu set to "on" but I can't work out if it operates with the most commonly used shutter speeds because the shutter will not fire without a lens. I do hear four distinct shuter sounds with the slower speeds indicating that E Shutter is probably not active at those speeds. Who cares? There is a phenomenon which I call "Shutter Shock Syndrome" (see my report about it on this blog) which does affect the NX cameras and which might be eliminated if E Shutter were available at all shutter speeds.
Conclusion   At the start of this review I put  two questions which the NX20 needs to answer.
1. Is the NX20 a contender for serious consideration by the expert/enthusiast photographer seeking high performance from a flagship camera and lens system ?  In a word, no.  The NX20 cannot match the latest offerings from M43 with regard to image quality, performance, ergonomics, lens selection or lens quality.
2.  Does the NX20 move the NX system forwards or backwards, relative to it's competitors ? In my assessment, backwards. Samsung is gradually improving it's camera offerings (but not the lenses at present)  but in piecemeal fashion so every time the NX cams move forward, the opposition has moved further.
Comment and opinion  I really don't understand why Samsung bothers with NX series cameras. They make about 200 million !!!!!  smart phones per year. Output of NX cameras last year has been reported at about 100,000 units which is 0.05% of the smartphone production.  Maybe Samsung wants to be  a player in every imaging sector.  The NX line at present is long on attributes which are secondary to the process of making good photos (cute looking bodies, special effects, funky colors, i-function, wi-fi) and short on imaging fundamentals (image quality, performance, lens quality). Samsung's latest camera releases, significantly branded "Galaxy" appear to be hybrid smart tablet/camera devices with an emphasis on connectivity. It would appear this is the way Samsung is headed with it's imaging products.

 

 

Minggu, 12 Agustus 2012

M43 Super Wide Angle Zoom Lens Comparison


Panasonic 7-14 mm vs Olympus 9-18 mm Using Panasonic GH2 and Olympus EM5
Author AndrewS  August 2012
Left to right: Panasonic 14-45mm, Panasonic 7-14mm, Olympus 9-18mm, Olympus 12-50mm.
Introduction  The Micro Four Thirds system is growing strongly partly due to the number and quality of lenses available. Panasonic and Olympus have taken a quite different approach to the design brief  for a super wide angle zoom leading to an interesting comparison.  My experience over many years has been that standard test procedures using charts in controlled conditions only tell half the story about lens performance.  So I bought both lenses and both the GH2 and EM5  camera bodies for comparison and testing over a period of two months and many hundreds of photographs in a wide variety of conditions, including test charts and real world situations. 
On the left Olympus EM5 with 9-18mm extended for use. On the right Panasonic GH2 with 7-14mm.
Panasonic-Olympus lens-body compatibility  My understanding of the M43 concept is that in principle all lenses conforming to the standard would be compatible and work properly on all bodies. However in practice this is not entirely the case. To help myself understand this matter more clearly I have somewhat arbitrarily defined three levels of lens/body compatibility:
Level 1 covers the primary exposure parameters of ISO, Shutter Speed and Lens Aperture. This level also includes autofocus performance and reliability.
Level 2 deals with in camera correction of chromatic aberration and possibly other aberrations, corner shading correction and distortion correction. Panasonic cameras correct distortion and CA but not necessarily shading in RAW and JPG files but only with Panasonic lenses. Olympus cameras do not correct CA with either Olympus or Panasonic lenses. They may correct distortion to some extent with some lenses.
Level 3 includes a range of issues such as banding with certain body/lens combinations, electronic lockups and any other unexpected faults, failures or performance issues resulting from mixing maufacturers.
My testing has shown that lens-body compatibility issues are a major factor in the overall performance and functional reliability of each lens. Compatibility issues can, and in my experience do, occur at each of the three levels.

Treillage, Panasonic 7-14mm on GH2
Note on sample variation  My experience and reading indicates significant sample variation in both lenses and bodies. The findings reported here are valid for the particular samples which landed in my posession and may not be replicated exactly with other samples. However both lenses and bodies tested appear to be good with no obvious faults or defects. The only issue I noted is slight decentering of the Olympus 9-18mm lens as evidenced by slightly more softness in the top corners than the bottom corners  in landscape orientation at the wide end.
Design philosophy  You can see at a glance that the Panasonic and Olympus designers have taken a completely different approach to the SWA lens concept. The Panasonic goes for the highest possible optical performance while the Olympus achieves an astoundingly compact form. I think both succeed rather brilliantly but their success lies in different aspects of the performance spectrum so they are somewhat difficult to compare directly.
Strand Arcade Sydney Olympus EM5 with Panasonic 7-14mm
Specifications  You can read all the details elsewhere but in summary the main points are:
Zoom Range:  Both are 2x zooms but they have a different focal  length range. If you have not used a SWA lens before, you might not think there would be much difference between 7 and 9 mm at the wide end, but in practice the difference is very noticeable indeed, moving the Panasonic 7-14mm lens into Ultra Wide Angle territory, capable of extreme perspectives and requiring considerable care with composition. The other thing to bear in mind is that the 9-18mm range of the Olympus overlaps quite a bit with standard 12-50mm and 14-42mm zooms.
Collapsing Design:  The Olympus collapses from 71mm long in operating configuration to 49mm for storage. The Panasonic is 83mm long including the fixed petal hood.
Nominal Cylinder Volume: This is length x Pi x (half max diameter) squared, approximately representing the space which the lens will require in a camera bag. With front and rear caps in place the Panasonic measures 9.3 x 7.2 cm giving a Nominal Cylinder Volume of  380cc. The Olympus, again with front and rear caps in place and in collapsed configuration is 6.2 x 5.5 cm for a volume of 147cc. So the  Olympus nominal volume is 38%  of the Panasonic.  The Panasonic is by no means a big lens, indeed it is diminutive compared to SWA lenses for APS-C and Full Frame sensors.  But the Olympus is even smaller when collapsed, a remarkable feat of optical engineering. It can be tucked into an otherwise unused corner of a camera bag or nestled below or on top of another lens, taking up very little space.
Filter: With it's large dome shaped front element partly protected by a built in petal shaped lens hood, the Panasonic cannot accept a filter. I would think carefully about exposing this lens to salt spray or heavy dust. The Olympus somehow manages to enable a standard 52mm filter to be fitted, it doesn't even need an ultra slim type.
Mechanical operation  Both lenses zoom smoothly and feel well made. Both change length with zooming but on the Pansonic this occurs inside the fixed lens hood. Presumably the Panasonic/Olympus coordination committee was having a picnic day when someone designed the zoom action because they turn the opposite way !!! When mixing and matching between Olympus and Panasonic lenses I constantly find myself zooming the wrong way as a result.
The collapsing function on the Olympus is easy and smooth to operate, with a lock button.
Autofocus Performance and Reliability  I made several hundred photos using a wide variety of subjects and lighting conditions, using each lens on each camera. I kept notes along the way. In summary the rate of focus error was lowest with brand matched lens/body pairing. The Pana 7-14 on EM5 was quite prone to focus errors, especially in conditions with low light level and/or low subject brightness range. Sometimes the camera signalled difficulty finding focus but at other times it indicated focus acquired when that was not the case. Subjects with numerous glowing light sources in frame were a particular problem. This appears to be an issue for contrast detect AF systems as I have encountered it with the Samsung NX10/11 which usually have highly reliable AF, and seen the issue reported with Sony NEX cameras. The photograph of Strand Arcade made with the Pana 7-14 on EM5 produced several misfocussed frames.
Manual Focus  (No focus by scale)  No problems were experienced with manual focus using AF+MF or MF, both with MF assist. My ongoing complaint with M43 and all mirrorless ILC's to date is they lack any kind of facility for manually setting a chosen distance by scale. I don't understand why this is not provided as an on screen readout since the camera presumably "knows" what is the focussed distance set by the lens at any time. If this facility were available I would use it almost all the time with Wide and Superwide angle lenses which are ideally suited to prefocussing at the hyperfocal distance.  
Olympus 9-18mm on EM5 100% crop from corner
Optical Performance
Resolution: Both lenses deliver very high resolution in the central image area, with little discernible difference between them at any comparable focal length or aperture. In the central area virtually maximum resolution is delivered at the widest aperture available. The story is different at the edges and even more so in the corners. Here the Pana 7-14 shows clearly better resolution at all apertures and focal lengths. Stopping down provides slight benefit for the Oly 9-18 but makes little discernible difference with the Pana 7-14.
Panasonic 7-14mm on GH2 100% crop from corner
Contrast: The Pana 7-14 holds local contrast well, right into the corners, but the Oly 9-18 suffers from loss of contrast towards the corners.
Flare, General, Local, purple: As with most super wide lenses, direct sun on the front element of either lens will produce a variety of unwelcome flare patterns. The Oly 9-18 is prone to local flare towards the corners particularly with subjects having a high brightness range. In these conditions there is considerable local image degradation due to light flaring from bright subject areas into dark areas. The Pana7-14 is subject to a curious phenomenon which I have only encountered on the EM5 thus far. This is one or more large areas of soft  purple flaring in the vicinity of bright light sources in the frame. This has been reported on the dpreview m43 user forum. I am not aware of a cure for this problem.
Chromatic Aberration: This is clearly present toward the corners with both lenses. It is corrected in camera with the Pana7-14 on Panasonic cameras but not corrected in the other lens/body combinations. It can easily be eliminated in ACR 7.1 or LR4.1.
Purple Fringing: This can be very prominent towards the corners with both lenses and is corrected in camera, sometimes incompletely depending on the subject, with the Pana7-14 on Panasonic camera. Purple fringing can generally be eliminated or at least greatly reduced by judicious use of the control sliders in ACR7.1 or LR4.1.  
Drawing (geometric distortion): The Pana 7-14  on Panasonic cameras produces partly corrected barrel distortion at the wide end and incompletely corrected pincushion distortion at the long end. The Oly 9-18 on EM5 shows more obvious barrel distortion at the wide end and just the slightest trace of barrel distortion at the long end.  In each case the distortion pattern is evenly circular (not moustache type) and easily corrected in ACR 7.1 or LR 4.1.
Optical Performance Summary  In a broad central area of the frame both deliver excellent performance, with little to choose between them. Towards the edges and corners the Pana 7-14 has a clear advantage. So overall the Panasonic has the best optical performance and is a stop faster at the long end as well. The actual level of resolution achievable by both lenses is extremely high, enabling images containg a remarkable amount of fine detail.
Conclusion: Two lenses, Two winners  Each of these lenses has clearly been designed to optimise a different range of characteristics and capabilities and each succeeds resoundingly. Your buying decision will depend on which are most important for your own requirements.




Kamis, 09 Agustus 2012

What Shall We Call Them ?


WHAT SHALL WE CALL THEM ?
An opinion piece on naming camera types
Author  AndrewS    August 2012
Introduction    On 12 September 2008, Panasonic announced the Lumix G1.  This was the first model of a new type of camera which allowed interchangeable lenses but eliminated the reflex mirror, prism and optical viwefinder of a DSLR.
Ideal Design ILC Mockup
As I write this there have been 49 cameras of this type released or announced with all the major camera makers having one or more models.
Despite this major investment and product rollout, there has been no general agreement as to what these new style cameras should be called.
Brief history of camera types and names  In the early days of photography a camera was a large device supported by a solid tripod. The operator put a dark cloth over his (it was mosly his, the ladies presumably having more sensible things to do)  head and directly viewed a left/right, up/down inverted image of the subject on a ground glass screen. Hence the name "View Camera". Photography was democratised with Kodak's invention of the "Box Camera" thus named for obvious reasons. In due course Leica invented the "Miniature" camera which used perforated 35mm movie film. In due course the Leica acquired a "messsucher" or rangefinder and the Rangefinder Camera was born. Then came the Twin Lens Reflex  (TLR) type where you viewed the subject through one lens and exposed film with a second lens. The word "reflex" referred to the angled mirror located in the optical path of the viewing lens.  Then came the Single Lens Reflex  (SLR) camera in which a flipping mirror enabled viewing and image capture through a single, interchangeable lens. In the film era there were many small cameras with a fixed lens usually referred to as "Compact".
In the digital era we still have compact cameras in abundant numbers. Some of these have a long zoom lens and are referred to as "Travel Zoom". Some go one step further by adding an electronic fiewfinder and an even longer zoom, hence the name "Superzoom".
The SLR has become a Digital SLR (DSLR) and Leica still makes it's Messsucherkamera (M type), albeit with a digital sensor.
The new camera type  So now we come to the new camera type, and review some of the names it has been called, in no particular order.
EVIL  Electronic Viewfinder  Interchangeable Lens:  Apart from the obvious problem that no maker is going to refer to it's product as "evil" most of these cameras do not have an electronic viewfinder, at least not one you can put to the eye. 
MILC  Mirrorless Interchangeable Lens Camera:  This terminology is frequently used by dpreview.com  but written out in full and not abbreviated to MILC.  Maybe they think the image of "Milk" does not fit well with an electronic device. The name seeks to describe a device by reference to a feature which it does not posess, namely a reflex mirror. This has probably been useful in the early days of the new type, to distinguish it from the DSLR which was the dominant interchangeable lens camera type in 2008 and still is in 2012, but that is changing.   I see two problems with this name as time goes on and the electronic camera market matures.  First, cameras which do have a reflex mirror are already identified (TLR, SLR, DSLR , SLT) so it is redundant to keep on referring to those without a mirror as "Mirrorless". Nobody today refers to the motor vehicle as  "Horseless".  Second, I believe (and if their new product rollout is any guide, so do the camera makers) that in a few years the interchangeable lens camera domain will be dominated numerically by mirrorless devices, which will become the new standard configuration for consumer level cameras.
CSC  Compact System Camera:  The Technical Image Press Association (TIPA) has been promoting this name with some success and Canon has described it's new EOS-M camera as a CSC.  However there are difficulties with the CSC name. First, the term "compact" is already in general use to describe cameras with a fixed, non interchangeable lens. Second, "compactness" is an undefinable concept dependent on individual expectations about camera size. Third, the size of the new style camera is a consequential  benefit (or curse, if you don't like very small cameras) of the technology inside the camera, not a fundamental attribute of the concept.  Fourth, the idea of  a camera "system" is also undefined and subject to differing interpretation.
MSC  Mirrorless System Camera:  The New York photo vendor B&H uses this terminology, presumably for practical reasons as it helps customers find their way through the extensive catalogue on offer.  I can see how this makes sense for the time being but in the longer run MSC has the same problems as MILC and CSC.
DSLM   Digital Single Lens Mirrorless:  Panasonic has started promoting this name with the introduction of it's Lumix G5 camera in August 2012. To my mind it is the least useful name which I have yet encountered.  In a world where 98% (I don't know the exact percentage) of cameras are digital it is pointless referring to this attribute. The "Single Lens" designation was invented over 50 years ago to distinguish the SLR from the TLR, a pointless reference given the absence of TLR's in today's  market. My objections to the term "mirrorless" have already been made.
So what name is best ?   I think that right now now and anticipating the evolution of camera types, the name which makes most sense to me is, simply, Interchangeable Lens Camera.  (ILC).
This acknowleges that there are two main camera types, those with fixed lenses and those with interchangeable lenses. It anticipates continued  growth of "mirrorless" types as a percentage of the interchangeable lens category. It incorporates the value of looking forward rather than backwards. It acknowleges that cameras with some type of reflex mirror are already clearly identified.   It does not burden the name with redundant, outdated  or unecessary descriptors.
Footnote  I was looking at the Panasonic USA website recently and noted that Panasonic appears to be having a three way bet on the naming question. As the company was in the process of promoting the DSLM name in Europe, the USA website listed  Lumix G cameras as both Compact System Cameras (CSC) and also Interchangeable Lens Cameras (ILC).
Appendix: ILC's released or announced as at 10 August 2012
In alphabetical order:
Canon EOS-M; Fuji X-Pro 1; Leica M8, M9 and variants; NikonJ1, J2, V1; Olympus EP1, EP2, EP3, EPL1, EPL2, EPL3, EPM1, OMD-EM5; PanasonicG1, G2, G3, G10, G5, GH1, GH2, GF1, GF2, GF3, GF5, GX1; Pentax Q, K-01; RicohGXR with 5 lensor units and one lens mount module; Samsung NX 10, 5, 11, 20, 200, 210, 1000; Sony NEX  3, C3, F3, 5, 5N, 7.

Minggu, 10 Juni 2012

Canon EOS 60D Ergonomic Review


CAMERA ERGONOMICS
Ergonomic evaluation of the Canon EOS 60D
Not bad but not excellent
Author  AndrewS  June 2012
Introduction   For many years my cameras of choice were Pentax SLR's starting with the Spotmatic.  But Pentax was slow to embrace autofocus so in 1989 I switched to Canon EOS, starting with the 630.  That was followed by the 10, 50E, 1V  and 33V.  In the digital era, I have owned and used the 20D, 40D, 450D  and currently the 60D with a range of zoom lenses.
Photo 1
User level  Looking at it's price point, specifications and features I rate the 60D as a camera intended for use by photographers at  Level 4 (Expert/Controller, frequent use).  This is not an entry level/snapshooter camera.  Photo 1 shows the 60D basic hold.
Image Quality and Performance   This is an ergonomic review but I will make brief reference to the other two pillars of camera evaluation. Image quality has been exhaustively analysed elsewhere. Suffice to say it is good enough for almost any photographic project. Performance is also very good in all respects except autofocus accuracy. I find that particularly at the wide end of zoom lenses, AF is erratic, sometimes focussing incorrectly even in good light.  I have experienced this problem to some degree with every Canon EOS camera which I have owned.
Ergonomics   There are four phases of camera use, Setup, Prepare, Capture and Review.
Setup Phasemostly involves selection of menu options. The 60D menus are well laid out and easy to navigate. Submenu options never occupy more than one screen so scrolling down  in search of an option is not required. My Menu takes user allocated options for quick access. This is a much better arrangement than some other cameras which automatically shift recently used items to the My Menu screen. Compared to some other cameras, the 60D's menus are a model of clarity.
Prepare Phase  AF Mode, Drive Mode and Metering Mode are adjusted by the Press Button>Scroll Wheel>View LCD Panel method.   This gets the job done but Set and See Dials/Levers use fewer actions and can be set without having to switch the camera on. Other parameters are adjusted via the Q Menu. This also gets the job done but a more streamlined interface would be possible if each item in the Q Menu could be user set.
Capture Phase       The three main descriptors of ergonomics in this Phase are Holding, Viewing and Operating.
Holding  The 60D is a nice camera to hold. It is a good size for average adult human hands. It has a well shaped handle and thumb rest. It conforms to the hand much better than many smaller DSLR's and Compact System Cameras.
Viewing  Both the eye level viewfinder and the monitor screen are clear and bright, giving an excellent view of the subject. Camera status indicators are clearly visible in either viewing mode. The only downside of the viewing arrangements on this camera are those inherent in the DSLR concept, namely that eye level viewing and monitor (Live) viewing are separate user interfaces with a different AF system and different presentation of camera status data. This arrangement is not bad. However mirrorless (or Sony SLT) cameras offer a seamless segue from eye level to monitor viewing.
Operating  For the Level 4 photographer who wants to take control of camera functions in the Capture Phase, there is a substantial task list to be completed in a few seconds. The specific items on the list will vary somewhat with individual preference, but deliberative practice will typically include the following:
* Hold camera steady with both hands, without changing grip.
* View subject in the viewfinder without interruption, compose, zoom.
* Shift active AF area if required,  or center focus and recompose, or AE + AEL, or AF + AFL.
* Adjust Aperture in A Mode, or Shutter Speed in S Mode, or Program Shift in P mode, or Aperture + Shutter Speed in M Mode.
* Adjust ISO.
* Adjust Exposure Compensation if required.
* AF or MF > AE > Capture.
Let us analyse how the 60D goes about completing this task list.
The left hand is busy supporting the mass of the lens plus zooming and manual focussing if required.
The right thumb has to play an important part in gripping the camera but also has carriage of three Capture Phase tasks.
1. Start/lock AF with the AF-ON button. This button is just about perfectly placed on the 60D, making back button AF start/lock a smooth operation.  I would prefer the button to be slightly more prominent to make it easier to operate without having to flex the interphalangeal joint, but it works well enough as is.
2. Shift active AF area. This task is allocated to the 8 Way Controller. To engage with the 8 Way Controller the thumb has to drop down 50 mm from base hold position. In order to do this  the right hand has to release it's grip on the camera, forcing the left hand to take the full mass of the camera and disrupting the Capture Phase work flow.  It is also difficult to reliably hit the exact spot on the controller required to select intermediate AF sensor positions.
Photo 2
3. Exposure Compensation is allocated to the rear/lower scroll wheel, access to which requires the same actions as described above.
These arrangements for shifting active AF area and Exposure Compensation get the job done. Ergonomically the process is not bad but it could be upgraded to excellent with some minor changes to the user interface.
This camera has plenty of space for a JOG Lever, the optimum location for which is indicated by the white X in Photo 2.  The existing buttons would have to be slightly relocated.   The thumb has only to move 12 mm to the left, by side to side movement at the carpo metacarpal joint to engage with and operate the JOG Lever. This is the ideal user interface for shifting active AF point. The JOG Lever can also make itself useful for scrolling around items in Setup, Prepare and Review Phases of use.
Exposure Compensation can be moved up to the index finger's operational zone, as described below.
Photo 3
Now let us examine the role of the right index finger in Capture Phase.     On the 60D  the index finger operates the Shutter Release Button, the Mode Dependent Scroll Wheel and the ISO button.  The layout is shown in Photo 3.   But there are several ergonomic problems with this arrangement.
* The horizontal distance from the center of the Shutter Release Button to the center of the ISO button is 27 mm. This is a stretch too far for many people whose metacarpo phalangeal joint may have just average flexibility for side to side movement.
* ISO is a Primary Exposure Parameter, which should be easily adjustable in the Capture Phase of use. But the ISO button is in the middle of a row of identically shaped (apart from a tiny little nipple on the ISO button) and sized buttons, the other three of which are allocated to Prepare Phase actions.
Photo 4
* The consequence of these arrangements is that when using this camera I cannot reliably find  the ISO button by touch. My hands are 69 years old, like the rest of me, but they are in good working order, free from arthritis and degenerative disorders. If I can't do it, there will be plenty of other people in the same situation. As a result adjusting ISO goes back to being a Prepare Phase action, requiring the camera to be lowered from the eye and the ISO button located by sight. This is not the end of the world, it just means that the process of making photos has to be interrupted to change ISO. Ergonomically, it's not bad but not optimal either.
This camera has plenty of space to fit a much more efficient layout of User Interface Modules for use by the right index finger. One option is the Quad Module system which could be implemented in any of several different ways, but one which fits the projecting handle design of the 60D is shown in Photo 4.  This system allows the index finger to rapidly control the primary exposure parameters (Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO), the secondary exposure parameter (Exposure Compensation), AF if desired, AE and Capture, all with minimal physical movement, without disrupting view or grip. There is a division of labour between the thumb and index finger with the  thumb having control of AF if desired and focus area position.
Photo 5
I like to use the sports car analogy when thinking about camera ergonomics. For optimum speed and accuracy of operation without the driver having to think about each separate action, the accelerator, brake and clutch pedals have to be at the same height and close to each other, but not too close.
The UIM's in Photo 4  are placed with a similar concept in mind. They are at the same height so the finger can move directly from one to the other and they are close, but not too close. I spent a lot of time relocating UIM's on mockups to arrive at the disposition shown here. The horizontal distance from the center of the Shutter Release Button to the center of either the ISO or EV Buttons is 21 mm, an easy reach for most people. These two buttons  have a different shape and feel so they are easily located by touch. In a working camera their functions should be user selectable from a wide range of options.  There are plenty of photographers who would want to use these buttons for different purposes.
Photo 5  shows another version of the Quad Module system on a Sony camera. In this case we see a good  idea poorly executed, with excessive distance between the Scroll Wheel and the other Modules which are also at a different height and in a different plane.
Photo 6
Photo 6  shows another version of the Quad Module system on a mockup with Parallel Handle,  with the UIM's laid out in a fashion which suits the handle design.
Summary  I have been using Canon's mid range SLR's and DSLR's for many years. Apart from chronic autofocus accuracy problems they have all functioned reasonably well. The thing which I am not seeing is evolving improvements to the user interface, in other words, ergonomics. There are changes, the monitors grow and acquire swivel. The buttons move around, mostly to allow the larger monitors. But the process of controlling the camera in Capture Mode has not improved.   In fact, in some respects such as the loss of the JOG lever, it has gone backwards.
If Canon revised the user interface of the 60D in the ways which I have suggested the experience of operating this camera could  improve from "Not Bad" to "Excellent". There would be no cost penalty. Good ergonomics costs no more than poor ergonomics. Poorly located UIM's cost just as much as well located ones.


























Jumat, 01 Juni 2012

The Curious Case of Samsung i-Function


CAMERA ERGONOMICS
The Curious Case of Samsung  i-Function
If  i-Function is the answer, what was the question ?
Author AndrewS  June 2012
Background   In January 2010, Samsung introduced the company's first compact system camera, the NX10.  I used the NX10, then a mild upgrade, the NX11,  for the next two years. It is a decent little camera with a user friendly human machine interface (HMI).  However the NX10/11 needed an upgrade to  image quality, performance and  EVF  to keep up with it's CSC competitors. Instead, it got Samsung i-Function.
What is it ?      i-Function is activated by pressing a button on the barrel of the lens.  This brings up a unique interactive window on the monitor or EVF.   This consists of a broad ribbon of data across the lower quarter of the frame, completely obscuring the standard  display of shutter speed, aperture and exposure compensation status beneath the image area.  The button may have to be pressed up to 5 times to scroll between functions available. When the desired function has been reached, adjustments are made by turning the focus ring on the lens. A half press on the shutter button confirms the setting and returns the camera to normal shooting mode.
What can it do ?   On the NX11, i-Fn can alter several Capture Phase parameters. These are the  primary exposure variables (ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture) and  the secondary exposure variables Exposure Compensation and White Balance. Selection of Scene Modes, a Prepare Phase function, can also be allocated to i-Fn. 
Note that Samsung cameras with i-Function allow all these imaging parameters to be adjusted in traditional digital camera fashion, using the buttons on the top and rear of the body together with the mode dependent scroll wheel behind the shutter release button. On my NX11, i-Fn cannot be completely disabled although the ability to adjust ISO and White Balance by i-Fn can switched off  via the main menu.

Photo 1, Prepare Phase UIM's
User and reviewer response  Some users reported negative reactions to i-Fn, others said they really liked it. Several reviewers reported positively about i-Fn. I have not seen a published systematic ergonomic analysis of  i-Fn, so here it is.
Principles of Lens Based User Interface Modules (UIM)   Buttons and levers on the barrel of a lens are appropriate for Prepare Phase adjustments when the user is not taking photos. The camera can be held in one hand while the other hand operates buttons and levers on the lens barrel after locating them visually. Typical parameters for adjustment this way would  include Focus Limiter, AF/MF, Stabiliser O/I and Stabiliser Mode. Buttons and levers are difficult to locate by feel and become impossible to find when the camera is rotated to  portrait (vertical) orientation. Some users prefer underhand, others overhand grip on the lens.  Buttons which might be reasonably accessible with one of these grips become difficult to locate with the other.
Photo 2 Standard Data Display
If lens based adjustments are required in Capture Phase the UIM's  must be located by feel.  In this case,  circumferential collars or rings work best.   If these have an appropriately tactile surface profile, they  can be operated by the fingers of the left hand in landscape or portrait orientation, using "hand under" or "hand over" grip. Typical Capture Phase tasks allocated to lens based modules include manual focus and zoom.


Ergonomic analysis of one task, i-Fn versus Scroll Wheel
First, here is the sequence of actions required to adjust Aperture using the Scroll Wheel.  Neither the right or left hand is required to shift grip or move in any way during this brief action sequence.
1. Move the right index finger 13 mm back from the shutter  release button to engage with the Scroll Wheel.
2. Turn the Scroll Wheel while watching Aperture and Shutter Speed readouts in the data strip below the image.
Photo 3, i-Fn Data Display
3. Return index finger to shutter release button and press to capture.
Now here is the sequence required to adjust Aperture using i-Function.
1. Release the left hand from normal operating position, search by feel for the i-Fn button with the left thumb. Note  this button is much more difficult to find in Portrait orientation and requires an awkward position of the left hand.
2. Press the i-Fn button 1-5 times depending on the number of functions allocated to i-Fn and the order in which they appear on the information ribbon.
3. Move the left hand again (some lenses require more movement than others) until the focus ring is located by feel.
4. Move the focus ring while observing the readings on the data ribbon. Note that when changing any parameter by i-Fn the standard data display of Aperture, Shutter Speed and Exposure Compensation status, is obscured, preventing observation of the effect of changing one parameter on the others. Note also the i-Fn display presents a completely different cognitive experience (the appearance of a horizontally moving ribbon) to the standard data readout (Aperture and Shutter Speed readouts stay in one place, changing in value, with a coloured background indicating the currently active parameter).   Either arrangement works but switching back and forth between the two is disorienting.
Photo 4A Normal Hold
5. Half press the shutter release button to confirm the setting and return to normal operating mode.
Summary of action analysis  I could describe the steps required to alter each of the variable parameters able to be changed using i-Function, but there is little to be gained by so doing. The process is very similar for each. Adjustment of ISO and WB the standard way  requires a button press before rotating the Scroll Wheel.
Photo 4B Thumb on i-Fn
Conclusion  In every case, when compared to the standard operating method, adjusting a parameter with i-Function takes longer, requires more steps, requires more finger movements and obscures camera status data during the process.
All of which leads to the obvious question:  What was Samsung trying to achieve with i-Function ? As a consumer, I have no idea what Samsung's product development team were thinking.  However perhaps we can get a clue from the way i-Function is used in Samsung's promotional and marketing material.
These quotes from Samsung website material on 1 June 2012 are representative:  "Touch one button.  Change everything".  "The i-Function lens just made conventional cameras obsolete".  "One step control of Shutter Speed (Aperture, WB ...etc)".
Photo 4C Rotate Focus Ring
Clearly the marketing people want you to believe that i-Function is a wonderful new thing which somehow changes everything and makes conventional cameras obsolete.
One of the claims made for i-Fn is incorrect as to fact.  That is the "One Step Control" claim. I suppose one could have a futile debate about the precise definition of a "Step", but on my evaluation the minimum required for an i-Fn adjustment is 3 steps, with several requiring more.
Photo 4D Vertical hold
My guess is that Samsung marketing wanted a unique selling proposition (USP) for the NX series and somehow came up with the i-Function idea.  Unique it may be and selling point it may be but when subjected to ergonomic analysis it becomes very clear that if the camera is used for the purpose of making photographs (as opposed to just experimenting with the controls) then  i-Fn adds nothing useful to the user experience.
Photographs
Photo 1, Prepare Phase UIM's   This shows a set of  switches on the barrel of a lens. They operate functions required in the Prepare Phase of use. Zoom and Focus in the Capture Phase are operated by wide circumferential rings. This lens is a good example of optimal UIM design and location.
Photo 2, Standard Display This shows the well designed, easy to read, standard  Samsung data display. Here Aperture is showing as active. When altered the effect on Shutter Speed is immediately apparent.
Photo 3, i-Fn data display  This obscures the standard display and prevents the operator from monitoring Shutter Speed while Aperture is changed. In addition it presents a cognitive experience which is completely different from the standard display and a distraction from the process of making photographs.
Photos 4 A-C  This sequence of three photos shows the process of using i-Fn with the 50-200 mm lens.  4A shows the left hand in standard "Hand Under" position.  4B shows that in order to activate i-Fn the left thumb has to move back 40 mm to find the I-Fn button. The button has a low vertical profile to prevent accidental activation but this makes it difficult to locate by feel.  4C shows that in order to change a setting the left hand must now move forward 65 mm to reach the focus ring.
I actually prefer the "Hand Over" grip with this lens which makes using i-Function almost impossible.
Photo 4 D Shows the camera in portrait orientation with the i-Fn button out of sight, difficult to reach with any finger and therefore almost impossible to use.