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| LX100 |
The Lumix LX100 is an interesting camera which attempts to pack most of the features of a fully specified Interchangeable Lens Camera (ILC) into a compact form.
The designers opted for an Aperture Ring + Shutter Speed Dial type of control system which has implications for setting up and using the camera.
There is no Exposure Mode Dial and no Main Control Dial on top of the camera.
Modes and features usually found on an Exposure Mode Dial must be reached by other means.
This little series of four posts on setting up the LX100 is intended to be informative not prescriptive. I will describe some of the options available, discuss the advantages and disadvantages of each, as I see them, then describe my practice with reasons.
Users with different priorities will come to different conclusions about preferred settings and ways of operating the camera.
Lens Protection
The LX100 lens is a high tech item with multiple aspheric elements. I imagine it would be very expensive to replace so I would not want to damage the front element.
Many smaller compact cameras have a built in multi blade type lens cap which operates automatically. The LX100 takes a different approach mainly I suspect because the lens is too large for the built in style cap.
The options are basically either the Panasonic LFAC1 petal type cap or the standard clip on lens cap supplied with the camera with or without a protect filter.
I have not tried the LFAC1 but I suspect it may not fit over a protect filter threaded onto the front of the lens. Also I am reading reports on user forums that the petals of the LFAC1 may not be very durable.
My approach is to fit a screw in 43mm B+W XS Pro 007 Clear MRC Nano filter and use the standard clip on lens cap. Any other slimline protect filter would do but I recommend a top of the line version for best performance particularly as there is no lens hood supplied nor does there appear to be any obvious means of fitting an aftermarket one.
This means I have to remove the filter and put it somewhere every time I take the camera out of its bag.
Carry Bag
There has been much discussion of this topic on user forums from owners seeking the perfect carry solution.
The LX100 has twice the box volume (width x height x depth) of the Sony RX100Mk3. This means the LX100 will not fit into most pockets so it needs a carry bag of some kind.
Some users have explored options for the smallest bag or pouch into which the camera will fit. Others including me have been more inclined to find a somewhat larger bag which allows the camera to be easily moved in and out and which can accommodate spare batteries, SD cards and maybe the (supplied) accessory flash unit.
There are also those who expect the carry pouch to be worn on a belt at the waist. Others prefer an over the shoulder style.
I am currently using a Think Tank Mirrorless Mover 5. This is slightly larger than required but provides a separate compartment for two spare batteries, a place for plenty of SD cards and the option of belt or shoulder carry style. The flap has a magnetic catch so the zip can be left open when out and about with the camera, allowing quick access.
I use the bag over the shoulder as I find it rather too bulky for the waist. Also the belt strap is sewn in so to disengage the bag the belt must be substantially removed from one’s trousers.
I have also used the Lowe Pro Dashpoint 30 which is the same size as the TTMM5 but lacks the pouch for the batteries.
Others have reported that the Hama Odessa 90 is suitable.
Batteries
At least one spare [BLG-10 PP or BLG-10 E] battery is desirable for a day out with the LX100. I carry two but have thus far never had to use both.
Stills or video
I do not do video so I have no advice to offer about setting up for video. There are websites which concentrate on video however and the LX100 Operating Instructions have comprehensive information about video options.
Control Module Functions
Readers familiar with the typical Panasonic user interface and menu system will have no trouble setting up the LX100. But newcomers to the Panasonic way might find the process initially rather daunting as there are so many options available.
I hope the remainder of this post and the next three posts will be of assistance.
Direct Focus Area
Now we come to a critical decision which determines how the camera works and what is possible and/or necessary through the rest of the setup process.
The LX100 like other cameras which use contrast detect AF directly on the imaging sensor can place the AF box anywhere on the frame and select any AF box size in 15 steps from very small to very large.
The LX100 like other recent Panasonic high end cameras can also set custom shaped AF areas. I suspect these are a techno-frolic by the designers, included because they can rather than because anybody said please can we have strange shaped AF areas.
For now let us just stay with [1 Area] Autofocus Mode which I have found to be the most useful and which I use 99% of the time.
Oh, yes while on that subject the default option for AF Area is [49 Area]. I strongly recommend against this option. This has the camera decide where to focus which may not be where you want it to focus at all. The lens has a wide aperture with shallow depth of focus at the smallest f Stops, so this really matters.
There are three approaches to changing the position and size of the AF Area (AF Box).
Method 1. The default which you will find when first using the camera, works as follows:
* Step 1, Press the left cursor button [AF Mode] on the Cursor button/Control Dial module on the back of the camera. This enters AF Mode.
* Step 2, Press the Down cursor button to enter [AF Area] function. The AF box turns yellow with four yellow bounding arrows.
* Step 3, Press any cursor button(s) to move the AF box around the frame.
* Step 4, Rotate the Control Dial to make the AF box smaller or larger.
* Step 5, Press the Disp button (while the AF box is yellow with bounding arrows)
Once, to recenter the AF box,
Twice to reset AF box size to default which is size 5/15.
The advantage of this default system is that you retain ISO, WB, Drive Mode and AF Mode on the cursor keys.
The disadvantage is that you do not have direct access to moving the AF box. You must do a double press, using two different keys to get into the AF Area function. This is slow and a disruption to the capture workflow when you want to move that AF box quickly onto a specific part of the subject.
Method 2. Assign [Focus Area Set] to a Function Button. Go to the Custom Menu Screen 7/9 then to [Fn Button Set]. Follow the prompts. The only Function button adjacent to the Cursor buttons/Control Dial module is Fn 1, so that is the obvious one to use.
This works as follows:
* Step 1, Press the Fn 1 button. The AF box goes yellow with bounding arrows.
* The rest is as for Steps 3, 4 and 5 above.
The advantages of this system are that the default functions of the cursor buttons are maintained and access to moving the AF box is one step faster than the default approach.
The disadvantage is that it is not as fast as the next method and Fn 1 is unavailable for other functions.
The opportunity cost of assigning any function to a button is that you cannot assign any other function.
Method 3. Set [Direct Focus Area] ON at Screen 3/9 of the Custom Menu.
* With Direct Focus Area the AF box changes to yellow with bounding arrows and moves immediately when any cursor button is pressed.
This is the quickest way to change AF box position and size.
The disadvantage is that access points must be found for ISO, WB, Drive Mode and AF Mode.
Which is best ?
One of the advantages of a highly configurable camera like the LX100 is that you can virtually design the way the camera operates to individual preference. The challenge is that such choices must be made from a dense multitude of options.
For the owner without previous experience using an advanced Panasonic Lumix camera, I would suggest starting with the default settings then experimenting from there.
Some users, perhaps with previous experience of DSLRs say they routinely use the focus (with the center AF area) and recompose technique for off center subjects. Presumably these users have become accustomed to that technique, which I also used with SLR then DSLR cameras.
With the new mirrorless cameras the AF position and size can be changed so quickly and the operation of off center AF is so effective that I no longer use the focus and recompose technique at all.
My practice is to set Direct Focus Area ON.
I have ISO on the Lens Control Ring, White Balance and Autofocus Mode in the Q menu and Drive
Mode on the Fn1 button.
I find this very logical. I want to move the AF box in Capture Phase, as I am in the process of taking pictures so I set that up for the fastest possible access with the least possible actions.
I may want to change ISO in Capture phase so that is on a quick access module.
I infrequently need to change Autofocus Mode so that is appropriately allocated to the Q menu.
I more often want to change Drive Mode so that is on a Fn Button which is more quickly accessed than items in the Q menu.
Lens Control Ring
The lens control ring is smooth, not clicky. User assignable functions, Custom Menu, Screen 8/9 are:
* [DEFLT Normal], which on my camera appears to be exactly the same as Step Zoom
* [Smooth Zoom]
* [Step Zoom]
* [ISO Sensitivity]
* [WB White Balance]
* [Filter select]
* [OFF Not Set]
I have found there is an ergonomic issue with the lens control ring. It is easily bumped accidentally when changing aperture or aspect ratio or focus mode. The ring turns easily and gives no feedback in the form of clicks to indicate it has been turned.
Several of the functions assignable to the lens ring don’t make a lot of sense to me.
Zoom is more easily controlled with the zoom lever in front of the shutter button.
I won’t put white balance there as the ring is so easily bumped.
Filters already have a dedicated button in front of the Exposure Compensation dial.
That leaves [OFF] or [ISO Sensitivity].
I have [ISO Sensitivity] there at the moment but am seriously considering the prospect of disabling this ring as I quite often notice I have bumped the ISO setting off Auto which is what I use for the majority of my photos. I could put ISO on the Q Menu. Or a Fn button, but then I would have to move something off that Fn button onto the Q Menu, probably Drive Mode.
You see how this works. It’s a game of consequences and opportunity costs.
You have to decide what function to allocate to each control module and every decision sets off a little chain reaction.
Good luck.
Next up, Q Menu and buttons
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